Mosque visit / モスク訪問

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Suddenly, “the world of the Middle East” appeared before my eyes. The eyes of all the men sitting tightly on the floor of the large meeting hall suddenly turned to me, an Asian from the Far East. “I've come to the wrong place”, I thought for a moment, but the memories of Egypt, where I had spent for good two months previously, came back to me, and I was enveloped in a nostalgic feeling. “Go to the back room, here it’s full.” It was all in Arabic, but it was obvious we were told so. I left the nostalgic feeling from my time in Cairo, as I put my shoes in the shoe rack, and hurried to an inner room in the back of the mosque.

“Mr. M invited me to a mosque, would you like to join us?'' I had asked my colleague, Gernot, a week before and he was very excited. Last Friday Mr. M finally took us to a mosque in Linz, and it was my the first mosque experience in Austria. On our way from the Linz central train station, I was about to pray quietly in my heart once again to get prepared for the coming adventure, when suddenly the aforementioned “Middle East'' spread out in front of me. It was about a 15 minute walk from the station, and we arrived quicklier and earlier than I had expected. “I’m glad Gernot and I have prayed for the Lord’s presence, guidance and protection beforehand at the train station.” I said to myself and I felt a little relief. Although I wasn't completely prepared, a determination came to the heart; “No other choice, I gotta go!”

The Linz's only Arab mosque is located on the first floor of an apartment building a few streets away from the main street. There was neither a crescent-moon decoration nor a dome-shaped building unique to Islam, so it was difficult to recognize it as a mosque from the outside. Outside the entrance of the mosque, a Muslim who had arrived at the same time called out to us, “salaam alaykum” (the Arabic greeting), and I grabbed my shoes, which I had already taken off on the street, and stepped into the mosque.

The mosque was filled with people who appeared to be Arabs, Africans, Southeast Asians, and Europeans. There was nothing unnatural about Mr. M nor Gernot, but I felt a little out of place. We passed the people lining up in the narrow hallway to cleanse themselves in the washing area, and proceeded to the middle-sized room. The room was also almost full, but fortunately there was a space near the door, so I sat down leaning against the wall. The attendants were all men, from the oldest of about 80 years old to children aged 5 to 6. Three boys aged around 10 years old, sitting next to their father, were curiously looking at me, so I smiled back at them. The normally noisy Arabs, who listen to loud music even in the middle of the night, who easily get into quarrels and fights, and who lack the Austrian manners, have now become strangely quiet. Some were looking at their phones, while others were silently concentrating on prayer.

It's now almost 1:30 p.m., and it's almost time for the worship service to begin. Just as the adjoining small room next to our medium room was filling up, a flood of people poured in at the last minute, and the large, medium, and small rooms were all in a state reminiscent of a crowded train in Japan. There were about 250-300 people altogether in the facility that should be supposed to contain a maximum of 100 people. There is a recitation of the Quran, and then the sermon begins. No one was sleeping, but from the expressions on the faces of the believers, I didn't get the impression that the Arabic sermon was particularly moving. However, I imagine now that around the same time a morale-boosting sermon was being preached at the Palestinian mosques during their holy Friday service the day before the brutal Israel attack.

The Muslims seemed to be curious about me and Gernot, who didn’t participate in prayers and instead sit on the floor all the time, so they occasionally took a look at us. I also couldn't stare at my surroundings, so I only sometimes looked around, occasionally lowering my gaze to avoid clashing with their gaze. Then, all of a sudden, everyone stood up and started moving, and in the blink of an eye, neat lines of men filled the room, and they started praying together according to the commands. From the posture of straight standing, bow, pause briefly with their heads lowered to the waist level, then lower the body, and from the sitting in a kneeling position, raise their buttocks high and press their foreheads tightly to the floor in prayer. . The prayer actions are repeated several times. Just when I thought the prayer had reached its climax, it suddenly came to an end and everyone hurried to the shoe rack.

Friday is supposed to be the most important holy day of the week, but there is no fellowship or lunch together like there is at church. Everyone quickly heads home. Seeing this scene, I began to see the answer to my long-time question I had got from the church-plant experience, “why don't Christian believers from the Muslim background easily commit themselves to a church? Why are they not often rooted in the church life?" For them, maybe, their faith is all about the relationship with the vertical (God), and the relationship with the horizontal (other believers) is less important? While I was thinking about this, Mr. M invited us to go have tea. Along the way, his friend who had come to visit from Vienna joined us, and just before 3pm, we passed through the entrance of an Arabic cafe (?). Then, Mr. M started ordering food at once. He even finished paying for everyone and returned to our seats. I then remembered him saying earlier, “as thanks to you and congratulations for finding a job and getting the Austrian passport, I would like to invite you to an Arabic restaurant.”

As the meal began, Mr. M made a parade of statements about how wonderful Islam is. Gernot, who is well-versed in Islam and the Muslim culture, continued to slowly put food into his mouth. However, there was something about his face that didn't look bright. (He told me afterwards that he wasn’t convinced by Mr. M’s claims and argument, but chose to be quiet as it was in a public place.)

Muslims are not allowed to ask questions or have doubts about their faith or Islam. It’s a. faith that takes what is preached and taught at face value. For many believers, the Quran is not something to understand, but to memorize and recite. This is very different from Christianity; you struggle with a verse or scripture you don't understand, ask God, study the Bible on your own, ask a pastor or mature Christians, contemplate it prayerfully, come to an understanding, and apply it to your life. Mr. M's claims were as if he just passed on what he had heard from an imam (Islamic teacher), but I was able to peer a little further into the world in which Muslims live. In a sense, it was eye-opening.  

I have not read the Quran or the Hadith (the sayings and deeds of the prophet Muhammad) cover-to-cover yet, so I cannot say for sure, but if you read these Islamic holy books literally, the words and actions of the so-called extremists begin to seem "natural" (it starts to make sense why they do such actions, because it’s written there). On the other hand, I cannot get my head around those who insist Islam a religion of peace.

There are some things I keep in mind when sharing the Gospel of Jesus Christ. I try to get the person speak and share their world-view, belief and opinions. I try to be quiet and actively listen to what the other person has to say. There are indeed some people who immediately put their faith in Jesus, when they hear the Gospel for the first time. But often it takes time and prayers. Trapped within the worldview and beliefs that they have cultivated, they cannot immediately understand the grace of the Gospel. It’s like a towel soaked with water. If you try to wipe your sweat with that towel, it won't dry you, rather you'll end up getting even wetter. Only when you wring the towel and let the water drip off can you properly wipe the sweat. Actively listening to what the other person has to say is like wringing out a towel. Once I have had them talk enough, got them satisfied, and let them “squeeze out the water”, I will tell them about the ‘Water that will never make them thirsty again’, while praying that they will receive the Water themselves.

Finally, I would like to conclude this update by writing about our trip plan to Israel at the end of this month, which has caused many people concerns. Thank you to those who have sent us messages.

To visit Israel as a family has been a long-time dream of our family. We wanted to celebrate the completion of cancer treatment, our 10th wedding anniversary, and the finance was also miraculously provided, but due to the current situation in the Middle East, we have decided to postpone the trip. We have dear friends in Israel. For them, for the land and people of Israel, for Palestinian Christians, ordinary citizens, women and children, we pray that the Lord God will protect and keep them, and we are going to do what we can do to help them from here. May the Lord God judge evil, bring justice, and cover and heal those who have been traumatized, devastated and hurt.

For our struggle is not against flesh and blood, but against the rulers, against the authorities, against the powers of this dark world and against the spiritual forces of evil in the heavenly realms.  Therefore put on the full armor of God, so that when the day of evil comes, you may be able to stand your ground, and after you have done everything, to stand. Stand firm…Ephesians 6:12-14a

突然目の前に現れたのは『中東の世界』。大きな集会所の床にびっしり座っていた人たちの視線が一気に極東のアジア人に集まります。「場違いのところに来てしまった」一瞬そう思いましたが、以前２ヶ月過ごしたエジプトの思い出がよみがえってきて、何か懐かしい気持ちに包まれました。「奥の部屋へ進め、ここはもういっぱいだ」すべてアラブ語、でもそう言われているのは明らかでした。首都カイロで過ごしたノスタルジックな気持ちは、靴と一緒に下駄箱に置き、奥の中部屋に急ぎました。

「Mさんにモスクに誘われたんですが、一緒に行きたいですか？」一週間前に同僚のギャーノットに尋ねると、とてもエキサイトしてくれ、先週金曜日、Mさんに案内され3人で、遂にオーストリアで初めてのモスクに足を運びました。リンツ中央駅からの道中、モスクに入る前にもう一度一人心の中で祈ろうと思っていた矢先、先ほどの『中東』が目の前に広がったのです。駅から徒歩15分程度、思ったより早く着きました。「事前に駅でギャーノットと2人で祈っておいてよかった〜」と少しホッとしたものの、心の準備は完璧ではありません。「行くしかない！」と目の前のアドベンチャーに対して腹をくくりました。

『リンツ唯一のアラブ人モスク』は、大通りから数本道を中に入ったところに立つアパートの一階でした。イスラム教特有の三日月の飾りもなければ、ドーム型の建物もありません、外見からそれをモスクと認めるのは難しいです。モスクの玄関外で、同時刻に到着したイスラム教徒に「サラマリコン（アラブ語の挨拶）」と声をかけられ、道路ですでに脱いだ靴を手に持ち、モスクの中に足を踏み入れました。

モスクは、アラブ人、アフリカ人、東南アジア人、ヨーロッパ人らしき人たちで溢れています。Mさんもギャーノットさんも不自然さはゼロですが、僕はどうも浮いています。洗い場で身を清めるため、狭い廊下に列をなす人たちを横目に、中部屋へと進みました。中部屋もほぼ満杯、幸いドア近くにスペースがあったため、壁にもたれるように体育座りしました。上は老人、下は５〜６歳の子までいます。全員男性。お父さんに連れたれて10歳ぐらいの男の子たちが、興味深そうに、僕の方をジロジロ見てくるので、スマイル返しをしました。普段は、真夜中でも爆音で音楽を聴き、喧嘩早くて、オーストリアでのマナーに欠けるうるさいアラブ人たちが、異様なまでに静まり返っています。携帯を眺めている人もいましたが、黙々と祈りに専念している人もいます。 

時刻はもうすぐ午後1時30分、まもなく礼拝開始時刻です。隣接する小部屋もいっぱいになってきたかと思うと、ラスト・ミニッツにドっーと人が流れ込んできて、大、中、小部屋は、日本の満員電車を彷彿される状態になりました。100人が上限だろうと思われる施設に、約250〜300人はいます。コーランの朗読があり、そして説教が始まります。寝ている人こそいませんでしたが、信者たちの表情からは、アラブ語の説教が特に心に響いている印象も見受けられませんでした。でも、この時、時を同じくして、パレスチナのモスクでは、イスラエル攻撃前日の聖日礼拝で、士気を高める説教がされていたのかなと想像します。

祈りに参加せず、ずっと体育座りしている僕とギャーノットのことがムスリムたちも気になるようで、時折チラ見してきます。こちらもジロジロ周りを見るわけにはいかず、彼らの視線とバッティングしないように、時々視線を落としながら、周りを観察していました。すると、いきなり皆一斉に立ち上がり、動き出したかと思うと、あっと言う間に部屋いっぱいきれいな列ができました、そして号令に沿った合同の祈りが始まります。気をつけの姿勢から、礼をし、頭を腰のところまで下げた状態で一時休止、その後体を低くし、正座の状態からお尻を高く上げ、額を床にギュッと押し付けるように祈る。それを数回繰り返します。祈りもクライマックスになったかと思うと、あっけらかんにパッと終わり、皆が足早に靴箱に向かいます。

週のうちで一番大切な聖日金曜日の礼拝なはずなのに、教会であるようなフェローシップ、ましてや昼食などありません。皆足早に帰路につきます。その光景を目の当たりにして、「イスラム教を背景に持つ人たちは、クリスチャンになった後も、なぜ教会生活に根付かないのだろう？なぜコミットしないのだろう？」という疑問の答えが少しわかった気がしました。彼らにとっては、信仰は縦（神）との関係がすべて、横（他信仰者）との関係はそれほど重要ではない？そんなことに思いを巡らしていると、Mさんがお茶を飲みに行こうと誘ってくれました。途中で、ウィーンから訪ねに来た彼の友人も加わり、午後３時前、アラブ・カフェ（？）のれんをくぐりました。すると、Mさんは一目散に料理を注文し出したのです。全員分の支払いも終えて席に戻ってきました。「仕事が見つかったこと、オーストリアのパスポート取得できたことのお礼と祝いとして、アラブ・レストランに招待したい」と彼が以前から言っていたのを思い出しました。

食事が始まると、「イスラム教はどんなに素晴らしいか」というMさんの主張のオンパレード。イスラム教・ムスリム文化に精通しているギャーノットは、おもむろに食事を口に運び続けます。しかしその顔はどこか晴れない様子。（Mさんの主張や議論に納得しなかったが、公共の場だったため口を閉じていたとギャーノットは後で教えてくれました。）

イスラム教徒は、信仰について、質問や疑問を抱くことは許されません。言われたことを鵜呑みにする信仰。多くの信者にとってコーランは理解するものではなく、暗記、暗唱するもの。読んでも解らないことに葛藤し、神さまに尋ね、牧師に質問し、自分で聖書を学びながら祈り心で咀嚼し、理解に至り、人生に適用するというキリスト教とは違います。Mさんの主張は、イマーム（イスラム教指導者）から聞いたことの横流しのようなものでしたが、僕は彼らのいる世界を更に少し覗くことができ、ある意味目からうろこでした。

コーランやハディース（預言者ムハンマドの言行録）をカバー・トゥ・カバーで読んだことはないので、断言はできませんが、それらのイスラム教の聖典と呼ばれるものを字義的に読むならば、いわゆる過激派と呼ばれる人たちの言動は、『当然のこと』（そのような思想や行動に至るのも納得いく）のように見えてきます。逆に、イスラム教を平和の宗教と呼ぶ人たちに首をかしげたくなります。

福音を分かち合うときに心がけていることがあります。それは、まず相手の話を聴くということ。福音を初めて聞いて、すぐパッと信じれる人も確かにいます。しかし大半は違います。自分が培ってきた世界観や信条の中に閉じ込められ、福音の恵みがすぐには分かりません。水をびしょびしょに含んだタオルのよう。そのタオルで汗を拭こうとしてもふけないどころか、さらに濡れてしまいます。タオルを絞り、水を落として初めて、ちゃんと拭けるのです。相手の話をアクティブに聴くというのは、タオルを絞るような作業。たっぷり話しもらい、満足してもらい、“水を絞り出して”もらったら、『決して渇くことのない水』の話をします。その人にもその水に与ってもらえることを祈りながら。

最後に、多くの人に心配してもらい、メッセージをいただいているイスラエル旅行について記してこのアップデートを締めたいと思います。がん治療終了のお祝い、結婚10周年記念、主がそのための経済も備えてくださり、長年の家族の夢であったイスラエル家族旅行ですが、この度の中東情勢により、延期することにしました。イスラエルには大切な友人家族がいます。彼らのため、イスラエルの国と人々、パレスチナのキリスト者たち、一般市民、女性や子どもたちを主なる神さまが守り支えてくださるように祈り、ここからできる支援を行なって行きたいと思います。そして、主なる神さまが、悪をさばき、正義をもたらし、傷やトラウマを負った人々を包みいやしてくださいますように。

私たちの格闘は血肉に対するものではなく、支配、力、この暗闇の世界の支配者たち、また天井にいるもろもろの悪霊に対するものです。ですから、邪悪な日に際して対抗できるように、また一切を成し遂げて堅く立つことできるように、神のすべての武具を取りなさい。そして堅く立ちなさい。エペソ6:12-14a